Garden gallery: Private, protected and pretty

Published Jun 11, 2013

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Over the past fortnight, Cape gardens have been lashed by storms that have brought wind, hail and rain. In Gauteng, this winter has been mild so far but low night temperatures will hit before August

So, now that winter has arrived it is the time to prepare your garden by planting a perimeter screen of wind-resistant plants.

Screening parts of a garden can make a small garden appear larger, and a large garden more interesting by dividing the garden into “rooms”. Evergreen trees and shrubs are grown where there is a need to create privacy, to screen undesirable views, to provide protection from wind and to create interesting areas.

It is important to establish how quickly screening plants will grow, their eventual height and width, the amount of sun, shade and moisture they need, and to select those that will grow in your region. Support new plants to prevent wind loosening roots, and make sure that ties allow for growth.

 

Trees and conifers:

There are a number of indigenous trees that can be grown for shade, for screening, and as a wind break. Try the milkwood, tree fuchsia, wild peach (Kiggelaria africana), Cape silver oak (Brachylaena neriifolia), Cape date (Canthium inerme), wild coffee (Diospyros whyteana), sand olive (Dodonea viscosa) and cross-berry raison (Grewia occidentalis).

Also try the mountain karee (Searsia leptodictya syn. Rhus leptodicyta). The indigenous dogwood (Rhamnus prinoides) has shiny evergreen leaves and small red berries that can be grown as a tree or clipped as a screen.

Conifers are also excellent for screening. They are evergreen, frost hardy and come in different forms – columnar, pyramidal or spreading, with foliage of green, gold or grey. Establish the ultimate height and spread of each variety, and choose conifers to suit the size of your garden.

Prepare the soil well by adding compost and a handful of superphosphate, and general fertiliser.

Conifers need little maintenance once established, but do require regular watering throughout the year.

In cold winter gardens, boundary plantings of conifers help deflect wind and protect plants.

Cupressocyparis leylandii with grey-green foliage and a neat conical shape, grows to 10m high in 10 years, and eventually to 30m. Cupressus macrocarpa “Goldcrest” is conical in shape with lime green, lemon-scented foliage that becomes golden-yellow in winter, and reaches 4m in 10 years, and eventually 10m.

Juniperus scopulorum “Skyrocket” is blue-grey with a narrow growth habit suitable for confined spaces. It reaches 3m in 10 years, and eventually 8m. Platycladus orientalis “Aurea Gracilis” has a narrow form with lime green foliage that becomes darker in winter. It reaches 2.5m in 10 years.

Thuja occidentalis “Smaragd” (emerald green cedar) is of medium height and pyramidal in shape, and can be grown as a specimen or hedge.

 

Shrubs

Depending on the aspect and local conditions, the following are suitable screening shrubs for local gardens: Abelia, Azalea indica “Magenta”, an old favourite that grows into a large, dense, spreading shrub with single magenta flowers in spring, shade-loving gold dust plant (Aucuba japonica), Pride of De Kaap (Bauhinia galpinii), indigenous wild pomegranate (Burchellia bubalina), camellia, elaeagnus, euonymus, indigenous eugenia species, plumbago, raphiolepis, Cape honeysuckle and evergreen viburnums.

 

Camellia

Camellias are elegant evergreens that create a feeling of permanence, and can be used as focal points, background shrubs and as screens in the garden.

Their growth habit is neat and attractive, and varies in form – tall and graceful for boundary plantings, as specimens in the landscape, as slender columns to frame doorways and entrances, or with a rounded growth habit for screening. The foliage can be clipped and controlled in small gardens.

Sasanqua camellias have attractive glossy green leaves and, in autumn and early winter, produce delicate blooms with fluted or ruffled petals in white, pink or red, with some having a delicate fragrance. These plants do need some protection in hot climates from midday and afternoon sun, although heavy shade will not produce as many flowers.

The winter months belong to the classic and hardiest Camellia japonica and its cultivars.

They are dense, upright shrubs with glossy green leaves, and single or double flowers with rosettes of neat, overlapping petals. These old favourites stand up well to cold, but require more shade than other camellias.

A position on a south-side wall suits them. Early morning sun shining on the flowers can burn the petals.

Camellias need a lime-free, slightly acidic soil, rich in organic matter that is able to retain moisture, but never becomes water-logged.

Perfect drainage is absolutely essential. If there is the slightest suggestion of water remaining around the roots, grow in raised beds. It is also important not to plant too deeply. Camellias need regular deep watering, especially while they are setting buds.

 

Trellis

Trellis covered with decorative climbers can be used to divide small spaces into “rooms” and create screens for privacy.

The evergreen star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is an excellent subject for a trellis, with sweetly-scented white flowers in summer. In late winter and spring, pink buds of the evergreen Chinese jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) open their scented white star-like flowers.

This is a vigorous twiner that can be controlled by cutting back after flowering.

 

 

GENERAL GARDEN TIPS

* In winter, you can see the bone structure of the garden. At this time of year it is the shapes created by bare branches of deciduous trees, and the texture and colour of bark that are revealed. Colours of bark can vary from silvery-white, yellow, green to orange-brown, with textures that are rough or smooth, dull, shiny or papery.

* Too much rain in your garden so far this winter? A thick layer of mulch can protect plants against rain, and improve drainage and water run-off.

* If you have areas in the garden which are constantly water-logged in winter, consider raising the level of the beds by means of small walls built up of bricks, stones or railway sleepers. Fill the raised bed with a mixture of good garden loam and coarse compost to help with drainage and prevent root rot.

* Indoors, the coldest place in winter is near a window, even when it is closed, and indoor plants should be moved to a warmer position, but away from fires and heaters. Water pot plants once a week or when the surface soil is dry. Make sure that water penetrates to the root area.

* Cut off faded flowers to encourage continuous flowering, and remove side shoots and unnecessary tendrils from sweet peas.

* Every garden, whatever the size, has places that are warmer or colder, sheltered or more exposed than other areas. If you take advantage of these microclimates, and use them correctly, you will be able to grow a greater variety of plants.

* Group plants according to their needs. If your patio receives sun all day, grow waterwise succulents. If it is in shade for most of the day, then pots of ferns, clivia, primula and cineraria will do well. Use a commercial potting soil and add coarse river sand for plants that need good drainage. Add water-retentive granules to the mix for plants that like moist soil. - Weekend Argus

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