The dramatic outline of the 1 759m Cockscomb, the highest peak in the Eastern Cape, which resembles the comb of a fine rooster, constantly draws the eye of visitors staying at Blaauwbosch’s main lodge.
The succulent Karoo vegetation places a different stamp on this reserve. As we drove in, four magnificent gemsbok, gleaming with good health and flaunting their distinctive coats, barely bothered to move out of the way of our vehicle. This was how we, too, soon felt: chilled.
Walking around the grounds of the lodge, I found that several chalets had comfortable, bed-sized loungers on their verandahs. One even had a separate area under thatch, similarly equipped.
“Whoopee, a chance to sleep under the stars,” I thought, but camp manager Billiard Magwaza soon put paid to that idea. The loungers were designed for guests to take a siesta during the heat of a Karoo summer’s day. Sleep-outs are discouraged because of insects.
The staff at such places can be entertaining and informative. Their stories often help give insight into a sense of place, of viewing a destination against the lives of the surrounding community.
So, as I tucked into lunch, Theresa Sauli kept me fascinated with tales of how she grew up on a nearby farm, and walked eight kilometres to and from a farm school – barefoot!
“My feet were full of holes from the thorns and stones, and so sore in the icy winter,” she said. “When I massage my own daughter’s feet nowadays, I tell her how soft and cared for they are by comparison with my own feet,” said Theresa, without a trace of self-pity. She believes such hardships have made her strong and appreciative of the things others might take for granted.
On the game drive, we climbed ever higher into the rocky mountains above the lodge. The views were spectacular.
To our delight we spotted a fine caracal at sunset. Noticing our interest, it slipped stealthily into the bush, but emerged every so often as it went about its hunting. Three rhinos, foraging just a stone’s throw from our vehicle, spring hares bounding, a spotted eagle owl, a genet, and following leopard spoor, all added to the experience.
The reserve’s new Dubai-based owner plans a facelift for both the main lodge and Kaai’s Camp (currently closed for renovations) deep in the mountains.
On our return to the main lodge, as the moon rose like an enormous orange ball of fire, we were welcomed home by an enticing glass of hot chocolate, laced with Nachtmusik.
While the dining-room can be left completely open to trap any breezes in summer, a large tarpaulin had been dropped in deference to autumn’s frosty fingers, and our table placed beside the large fireplace.
On a balmy summer evening, tables are often set on the lawns in front of the lodge, making stargazing an added attraction.
Turning to what keeps gastric juices happy: our risotto with an array of vegetables creamed into it and served with slices of camembert, was memorable. This was followed by tender, tasty steak; and the pavlova with sweet melon, spanspek and cream was to die for.
Breakfast in the boma, warmed by an open fire, just as the sun clambered sleepily above a koppie, included oats with honey and whisky, an unusual omlette with summer vegetables and camembert, and a bread basket.
Replete with the good things in life, I returned to our verandah to gaze for a final time on the mountains and soak up the atmosphere.
Then a horrible thought struck me… the Karoo with its isolation and peace, in places such as this, might become a distant memory if the petroleum companies win the day, and get permission to go ahead with fracking for gas. My day was ruined.
• Contact 041 585 3359; e-mail: [email protected]; web: www.blaauwbosch.co.za - Sunday Tribune