There is something special about the Wild Coast – something that draws me there year after year.
Maybe it’s the unspoilt coastline and pristine beaches, or it could be the picturesque valleys and quaint little villages that dot the hills. Maybe it’s that the various coastal towns have a laid-back feel, or that the people are so friendly. More likely, though, it’s a combination of these things – a series of factors, sights and sounds that are oh-so-appealing.
Port St Johns, just 100km from Mthatha and 380km from Durban, epitomises what it is that makes the Wild Coast just so special.
For me, its beauty is unparalleled. The town is nestled in a valley alongside the mighty Umzimvubu River, with Mount Thesiger and Mount Sullivan towering on either side of the river mouth. Unspoilt beaches run to the south and north, with dozens of B&Bs and resorts literally a stone’s throw away from the sand.
Emotionally, more than anything else, Port St Johns holds a special place in my heart. My family owned a cottage there for a number of years before we moved to Durban. I remember December and Easter holidays, having friends down and spending a week at a time just having a blast. My eldest brother and his wife told us they were having their first child there one Christmas holiday. My other brother got married at the Cremorne Estate in September 2009.
Myself and photographer Sandile Ndlovu were there earlier this month for work and found that the town was not without its problems. The untarred roads were badly potholed. Trucks, bakkies, cars and hawkers block crumbling pavements, making a walk through town unpleasant. The town is run exclusively on a septic tank system, and not a very good one at that. This means there is a lingering odour in town.
More recently, however, the number of shark attacks at Second Beach – the most popular beach on the Wild Coast – has been a concern to visitors and to locals. Five people have been killed by sharks at the same beach in the past four years.
In terms of things to “do” in Port St Johns, there isn’t that much on offer – but that’s part of the area’s charm. It’s quiet, peaceful and relaxing. It’s seemingly impossible not to unwind there.
Most of the attractions revolve around the pristine beauty of the Wild Coast. There is the beach culture, where tanning and playing beach sports is a local past-time. Swimming is an option, but has become less popular because of the shark attacks.
One of the most popular places in the town is the airstrip, which was used by the Transkei military during its independence years. The views of the town, the river mouth and the valley inland from here, right at the top of Mt Thesiger, are simply breath-taking. It is a must-see for visitors. And take your camera.
Also extremely popular are The Gap and The Blow Hole, between town and Second Beach. It’s a short walk down a steep hill and then a climb down a rather treacherous ladder. But it’s worth it. At The Blow Hole, water is forced into a natural gully which ends in a chimney-like hole from which water shoots about 20m into the air.
Just outside of town towards Mthatha are the Isinuka (meaning “place of the smell”) Springs. These are the sulphur springs in the area and form an important part of the Pondo culture. They are used for medicinal purposes. In the other direction between Port St Johns and Lusikisiki are the Magwa Falls, the highest waterfalls in the Transkei.
Of course, there is the fishing, which is so good that many people are willing to make a day-trip of it from Durban. Poenskop on the Lusikisiki side of the river is very popular, but so is the river mouth and casting a line off the southern rocks at Second Beach.
More than anything else, though, the appeal of Port St Johns and of the Wild Coast in general is how relaxing it is. It really is a place to go and unwind.
The drive from Durban is not easy going. It’s twisty and turny and, once off the N2 toll road at Port Edward, mostly single-carriageway. Potholes are common, but probably not as bad as many imagine. There are, of course, the animals to worry about. Goats, sheep, cows and dogs make regular stops on the road, so it’s best to take it cautiously – and to travel during daylight hours.
But once in St Johns, the drive no longer matters.
Sandile and I were booked into the Outspan Inn, right next door to the city hall and museum. It was a lovely B&B in a great setting. Because of the pouring rain we couldn’t make sure of the swimming pool. In the evenings we went to the Cremorne Estate, on the opposite side of the river. Again, the setting is lovely and the food very good.
Of course, the main attraction at Port St Johns is the beach lifestyle. Admittedly, though, swimming at some of the beaches, particularly Second Beach, is losing its appeal. However, the beach at the Silaka Nature Reserve, a few kilometres south of town, is in a lovely condition and seems to be extremely safe. Many tourists have been heading here rather than to the town’s main beaches.
In terms of wildlife, Silaka isn’t packed with animals. The birdlife is spectacular, though, and twitchers will love it. However, because the reserve is protected, it is incredibly pristine and unspoilt. Booking into some of the cottages there will give you one of the nicest settings in the area.
I have stayed at a number of the places there and loved it each time. And whenever I need a time-out, I will go again. - Sunday Tribune